Glenn Martens unveils this season a more sophisticated Y/PROJECT woman while still remaining true to the twisted aesthetic language he has developed as a signature. Borrowing from eclectic references, from the Belle Époque to 2020, including the latent Edwardian feel of the collection, the designer creates his own semantic universe where versatility is the law.
The new silhouette sculpted by high waisted pants with a sharp V cut at the front is taken further and applied to a variation of pieces such as evening dresses with built-in exaggerated hips, tailored suits with bodysuit blazers revealing skin in a delicate way or the archetypal blue jeans, adding charisma and sexiness to the classics of feminine elegance. A pair of revealing trousers with an integrated G-string is the ultimate showstopper. The push-up bra makes a comeback and is incorporated into dresses, knits, or even bomber jackets.
The wrapped pieces introduced last season – prolonged by long straps tied around the waist – are carried on: tops, pants and skirts wind around the silhouettes, blurring their own boundaries. Most looks convey an infinity feel, as if they had no beginning and no end, no top or bottom. This strong design concept is purified and made more readable. The swirling movement of dresses, skirts or polo shirts, creates a flattering drapé effect.
In a playful take on fashion, layers of tulle, lace, ruffles, fringes and colorful satin stripes are multiplied, superimposed and styled in manifold ways. Blazer dresses are highlighted with layers of tulle, adding fluidity to classic tailored jackets and softening their strict lines. Each piece allows full expression of individuality.
The signature pop-up jackets are taken to their maximum potential, with new excrescences giving a 3D feel to each piece. Contrasting piping underlines their multi-dimensional volume. The classic heeled pumps are embellished with chains and pearl necklaces, and are proposed in a ruffleelastic version.
Renowned for his architectural approach to fashion and his ability to create ultra desirable musthave pieces, Glenn Martens masters crafting bold design concepts while maintaining an elegant wearability. The Y/PROJECT FEMME AW20 collection shows the evolution of the Paris-based label to a higher level of sophistication and addresses a great diversity of women.
Stylism: Robbie Spencer