MODALISBOA INSIGHT. More than interpretation, an introspection. More than a glimmer, thinking. More than an invitation, a call.
What we see – is it really what it is?
MODALISBOA The fashion that we see in the mirror often does not reflect solely the image of what is at sight. Many times that reflection can be hiding a deeper artistic reality that is not noticeable at first sight, or is only rather noticeable to whom intends to interpret the fashion that is alive nowadays and the challenges that it brings to us. But those are the challenges that inspire our designers every year, prompt our talents and catalyse our fashion. Challenges that emerge in a rapidly changing world, challenges mooted by the desire to question and rethink the image expressed by the fashion sphere.
The fashion that is produced today continues to be the outcome of this ability of the introspection to always imply action. An act of courage that takes the designers and fashion agents to be nonconformists, irreverent and rebellious towards the world that surrounds them.
During March 7th, 8th, 9th and 10th, ModaLisboa wanted to keep looking inside fashion, understand what kind of production there is, what sort of consumers we are, which new generations they will have, which legacy they will leave behind when moving forward.
INSIGHT because that introspection inspires all of us; it compels us to react, to hold on to the fashion dynamics in everlasting movement, working with the new languages called by the modern-day world – be it through sustainable production, synthetic urgency or the arise of new publics and consumption practices. We want to understand which trends are going to emerge, which models are going to be created, which paradigm is going to be established, which collections are going to stand out and especially who are we going to reach.
Making fashion is an act of courage and permanent rebellion, because fashion always reflects a changing world, and this change can both inspire creation for a few and condition the expression for others. With the globalization of fashion and the growth of the industry, fashion has gone from being a mere artistic metier to becoming a collective worldly language.
Nowadays fashion reaches all, we can all be influencers, and therefore the biggest challenge is to work one’s individual signature, the griffe, the brand. But the legacy will
be both what is produced in the course of a career, and the path left for the new generations. This is the role of SANGUE NOVO, a platform for spreading new talents and emerging values.
CAROLINA RAQUEL FW19
The winner of the ModaLisboa Prize for Best National Designer is Carolina Raquel and received a scholarship of 5000 euros. She will have the opportunity to attend a Master in Fashion Design at Polimoda in Florence.
‘A complex form’ is a study on the implicit process in a sculptor’s mental approach involved in the act of carving a sculpture. Everything begins with the block and the systematic fragmenta- tion ends up to be a quest of finding the shape within. ‘The full sculptural expression is spatial, it is the tridimensional realization of an idea, either by mass or by space construction.’
MODALISBOA The approach to each shape will focus on carving, as a sub- tractive technique, as well as modelling, an additive technique. Sculpture is the act of fragmentation, the complex process of subtraction – an elaborate act of undressing.
FEDERICO PROTTO FW19
The best international designer award was won by Federico Protto and he is invited to present a new collection on the Workstation platform, in the next edition of ModaLisboa, in October 2019.
In 2019, when the cyberspace is revolutionizing against every known conviction, also clothing acts almost like Artificial Intel- ligence.1 Thus questions like ‘What do we need and how do we want to live?’ lead directly to asking ‘What do they (the garments) need and how do they want to live?’.
“Muses” is a personal attempt to create a series of figures, driv- en by base interests and ideas of mine like my Hispanic heritage and a mix of main influences from my adolescence, but wading towards the greater goal of an oscillating network.
This network revolves around collaborations in the performing arts field as Agnes Varnai, Stefan Cantante and Urska Preis.
Andre Reiner Törner
ARCHIE DICKENS FW19
The Feeting Room offered an award won by Archie Dickens designer and was selected by the owners of the Portuguese concept store to sell his collection in the TFR space.
“Fluxo 19” is the continuation of a wardrobe which began life in his previous collection. It should not be seen as a new season, but a new selection of pieces to combine with previous ones. It draws upon the same theme of ‘freedom of movement’ as his last collection also did.
”I examined fluid lines, present in the sculpture of Ancient Greece and in naturally occuring forms such as coral. Blue and grey have emerged as dominant colours for me this year as I have been living in close proximity to the ultimate source of fluid movement – water. I have observed the everchanging relationship between sea and sky.”
What if the concept of hell and paradise didn’t exist? The idea of punishment or reward was annulled, death would only be a part of life.
La Petite Mort seeks to explore the limbo between life and death, in a predominantly believing culture that death is the end. Through a fusion of tradition and religious customs, this collec- tion represents a family offering, elaborated with materials and goods belonging to the ancestors, in order to honour their life and illuminate the path of eternal sleep. Is death the end or loss of consciousness in the transition between worlds?
RITA CARVALHO FW19
We enter mythology. We found Flora. Ancient Flora. Power of nature. It was beautiful. It was in ancient times. Perfect representation. What is perfection? Harmony. Idealization idealized by creative beings.
MODALISBOA Identity created. Identity shared. Flora. Now. FLORAGORA. Harmony faded where the future began. The time has passed. Deconstruction. Asymmetry. Disproportionality. Representation of an inverted aesthetic. Because it is no longer beautiful and it is no longer harmonious. Deconstruction of an identity while retaining its essence. Now. Flora. The past in the present is different.
THE CO.RE FW19
Vibrations are all around us. They shape the world that we know. Colors, sound and light; vibrations are responsible for the way we perceive all that surrounds us, and without them our world would be dull.
This collection celebrates the unappreciated beauty and sophistication of the phenomenon of vibrations, and how it shapes the things around us. With an emphasis on color and on the movement of waves and lines, our clothing strives to express just how intertwined vibrations are with our daily lives.
MODALISBOA INSIGHT FW19
WINTER DESTINATION: HALF MOON BAY, CALIFORNIA
MODALISBOA Back in the day, three friends adventured themselves in monster waves that only appear during winter. They used to bring their White Swiss Shepherd dog, who loved swimming in the dangerous ocean. In his honour the waves were named after him: Mavericks.
Warm up in layers of coats and join our cool adventurous surfers, surfing these giant waves.
VALENTIM QUARESMA FW19
The Future Is Now
A vision of the future through memories of the past. Manipulating materials through geometric and organic shapes in a contemporary language.
Upcycling. Use of obsolete objects and materials, potentially useful for creation.
An ecological concern in order to avoid waste by making use of existing materials, thus reducing the use of energy resources.
CAROLINA MACHADO FW19
This A/W collection was inspired by the night-time, the clubbing spirit and the feeling of belonging in the black hours. From the cool 90’s rave culture vs the Berlin night-club scene from today. Our motto: transforming nightwear in actual nigh-out wear. A sexy, mysterious, magical, melancholic and feminine collection, that keeps up with Carolina Machado’s code: bold, masculine tailoring is featured throughout. Iridescent effect, sequins, black vinil and the psychedelic tie-dye prints punctuate the collection.
CONSTANÇA ENTRUDO FW19
Constança Entrudo is a Portuguese born textile designer.
Immediately after graduating from her BA Textile Design at Cen- tral Saint Martins, Constança Entrudo launched her label in 2017 with a Spring Summer 18 presentation at Lisbon Fashion Week.
After working for Marques’Almeida and Peter Pilotto in London, she moved to Paris to work for Balmain under the creative direction of Olivier Rousteing as well as working on her own label. Constança’s approach to creation is based on the freedom to have ideas, unconstrained by any pre-existing rules
All fabrics and prints are handmade inspired by a visit to an old Madeira Embroidery fabric that closed in 2017.
JOÃO MAGALHÃES FW19
For the first collection that João Magalhães signs in his own name, the designer found inspiration in ‘A Thermodynamic Imaginary’, a showcase of aerial structures by Tomas Saraceno. The metal sculptures and light of the installations which defied gravity, influenced the designer, who sought to recreate these references in shapes, materials, textures and three-dimensional embroidery.
To this inspiration, João Magalhães adds the geometry and industrial universe of Russian Constructivism. The patterns and ruffles are withdrawn from photographs that the designer took in Japan, printed on fabric, and which reflect the colors and lines of the city.
The minimalism and austerity of the collection are interrupted by skateboarding and counterculture – this is what gives balance to the concept and injects life into it. This is the imaginary of João Magalhães for the next fall / winter.
DAVID FERREIRA FW19
A Young ‘Bétnica’ who behaves with an outward behavior and as if she belongs to a high social class, but stands out and excludes herself from this group (Betos) for her eclectic and exuberant taste and her mentality devoided of prejudices and / or pre-conceptions defined by society. Using the habits and traditions with which she most identifies with creating an ethnic hybrid that shapes perfectly to her beliefs, convictions and lifestyle.
For AW19 the woman David Ferreira is ‘Bétnica’, with a very unique, modern, dynamic and positive attitude. The muse plays with the brand’s style codes without taking herself too seriously. In a game of Volumes and Colors between fitted and oversized.
Sustainability has always been one of the pillars of AWAYTOMARS. From the creative process, which encompasses a diverse network of creative talents to the use of technology, our mission is to think of creation as a contributory rather than a wasteful mechanism.
This collection is a critical analysis of consumption and overproduction and has as its main objective the non-production and the re-evaluation, re-design and recycling of pieces of clothing discarded by their previous users. It was co-created with clothing sent by AWAYTOMARS members, consumers and partner brands.
Depth, pure energy, the formulation of an existence without limits. Nature is inspiration, a three-dimensional dialogue stripped of barriers and human conceptions that falls in everyday life as a refuge. It is from this narrative that Nature is Magic is born, Kolovrat’s manifesto to our condition as part of a movement that has the return to nature the only way.
The collection is ruled by a deconstructive motto, starting with oversized silhouettes and three-piece suits, where each piece can live in various forms, bringing a new look on the concept of classic. Having freedom as the motto, and nature as the key, Kolovrat started from the quasi-magical figure of forest components, particularly mushrooms, and used them as a symbol of universality and rapprochement between people. With Nature is Magic, the designer alternates between the image of the real and the surreal, giving us the important thing: a safe place, with no stereotypes or classes, where the drawing ́s fluidity drinks without pretensions.
ANDREW COIMBRA FW19
The Fall 2019 collection is all about dressing serious but not taking yourself seriously.
MODALISBOAThe collection maintains an undertone of streetwear-ability but motions toward a more refined angle, using playful silhouettes and the structure of late 70’s luxury business wear as a directional vessel. There is a nostalgia to it, exploring staple materials of Andrew’s childhood like corduroy, pebble crepe dress shirting with a retro-inspired oval print repeat, and in the case of the women’s collection: velvet devoré. Exploration in prints focuses on novelty, personal memories; the lyrics from a favourite song as a child, “Dollar Wine” by Byron Lee are used as a graphic on the back of a t-shirt, and hoodies feature photos taken by Andrew showcasing abstract moments of beauty during special moments of his life.
GONÇALO PEIXOTO FW19
For this collection Gonçalo Peixoto’s idea started with what women want, their desires, how they see our modern world and the modern femininity and curate those ideias in a collection.
With a cinematic mood and a character living in this narrative showing us the sense of her life. A woman who tells a story through each of the looks. With an edgy approach, deconstructed silhouettes appropriated by the nature of streetstyle. A major challenge in regard to timeless classics, revisiting and reinterpreting them.
MODALISBOA The starting point of the collection was the techno / minimal album titled “Persona” by DJ Rival Consoles. The album personifies the exploration of the persona, the difference between how we see ourselves and how others see us. At a time when we suffer with the absence of emotional links of the digital devices, this album personifies the search of our own identity.
MODALISBOA In contradiction to the loss of physical contact resulting from the digital age, the collection is also influenced by the universe of football, a sport that symbolizes multiculturalism, the collective spirit and unity among people.
RICARDO ANDREZ FW19
This collection pays attention to the public thinking and the way fashion is evolving or even criticizing itself, so the collection was put together valuing the sustainability behavior.
In an over-saturated industry like fashion, we are facing a new way of thinking and creating with “sustainability”. In order to raise awareness and to make a slow approach to the public, this collection was produced by using dead stock fabrics.