Highlights from MBFW MADRID Autumn/Winter 2019 and its commitment to sustainability

MBFW Madrid achieves an important qualitative leap towards its internationalisation in its 69th edition.

MBFW Madrid maintained its commitment to sustainability in this edition. This edition’s backpack was made with fabric manufactured from recycled PET plastic bottles. 35 PET plastic bottles were used to make 1 kg of tissue. Thanks to recycling, the extraction of non-renewable virgin materials is avoided, energy consumption is reduced by between 80 and 90% and there is less pollution.

Thanks to the new dates, now opening the international fashion parade season, the event composed a higher quality programme of international buyers and press. Prestigious concept stores, together with outstanding figures and influencers from different parts of the world and a selection of top international fashion brands, took the starring role among the invited guests attending this event. This edition, which ran from 24 to 29 January at IFEMA and other venues in Madrid, brought together the parades and presentations of 43 leading creators and brands, and a total of 53,477 visitors. With a fully satisfactory result and a significant qualitative leap in its internationalisation, the 69th edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid has concluded. This great Spanish design event, organised by IFEMA, was held from 24 to 29 January at IFEMA-Feria de Madrid and other points of the city.

The event was once again held in January, at the head of the international fashion show calendar, allowing MBFWMadrid to continue progressing in its internationalisation and attract to the catwalk more than 40 international professional guests, representatives from prominent points of sale and fashion distribution outlets, as well as well-known European, American and Asian media. Prestigious concept stores such as Luisa Vía Roma or Farfetch, amongst others, along with prominent figures and influencers from different parts of the world, such as Derek Warburton, Hilary Alexander OBE and Jessica Michault.

Agatha Ruiz de la Prada’s forthcoming AW 19/20 collection is more spectacular than ever. Brightness was the number one star of a fashion show full of humour and surprises. The party promised to go on forever what with so many new suggested looks for dresses, skirts and trousers that will be sure to delight all of Agatha’s many fans.

BEATRIZ PEÑALVER – NOMAD AW19

MBFW MADRID Entering Tenere, mother of all deserts, riding with the azure warriors and researching their ancestral culture opened the designer’s eyes to the amazing way of life of one of the nomadic tribes of the Sahara, “the Tuareg”. Their customs and modus operandi have a certain parallelism with and similarity to the way we currently live our lives. After thinking long and hard she has come to the conclusion that we all live in constant flux and are walking towards the same place as them, namely a life without passports or money, an anarchic model that kicks against the established order where the most effective currency is barter and mutual respect based on an unwritten law of sand.

At an unknown but fascinating point of time it occurs to her how the power of Tuareg women is raised to the podium of their culture. These are Muslim women who enjoy privileges unknown to many Westerners, respected as they are for their ethnicity, admired by their men and in sole control of their own destinies.

MBFW MADRID With NOMAD AW19/20 the designer has set out to recreate the atmosphere of a Tuareg settlement by using earthy, coppery colours, allusions to the handmade, a diverse range of textures and highlighting the significance of the movement caused by sandstorms. However, these elements are all overshadowed by the femininity, insinuated sensuality and exhilarating beauty of these Amazons of the desert.

Angel Schlesser AW19 – A romantic collection with subtle allusions to the Renaissance that sees the designer addressing and showing the more feminine side of the Schlesser woman as opposed to the masculine vision of his debut collection. Bringing both together using a harmonious dialogue of silhouettes, colours and textures that frame the woman in the relaxed atmosphere of naturalness, beauty and simplicity for which the company is famous. Wool continues to be the driving force of a collection rich in textures. Where shades of pink interact with a range of greens to form just one of the main elements of this particular palette alongside greys, tan, terracotta and touches of blue and white.

Duarte is a universe that explores the experience of formal clothing from other perspectives and its constant redefinition. The Autumn-Winter 2019 collection is created as a study, based on a highly anecdotal code, the office wardrobe, which immerses us in the brand’s genuine identity. This serves as the basis for creating an impact with the rules of the classic and establishing a dialogue with other scenarios of daily life. The collection was influenced by the work of the sculptor Dan Flavin, who used light tubes to transform a space through the impact of the light itself. This is how the world of tailoring intervenes in this collection, by clashing with other areas and giving them a new meaning.

The rhythm of the collection is marked by the introduction of fluid, technical and quilted fabrics with a variety of noble qualities. As a counterpoint, the satin fabrics define a new colour palette and amplify the collection’s visual atmosphere.

JUAN VIDAL AW 19 “ANGELA´S PIZZA “

”YOU CANNOT ENJOY TRUE LOVE IF YOU DON´T ADD HONEST FLAVOURS TO IT.”

Juan Vidal AW19 collection is a true lesson for all of us about how to embrace diversity, look for respect and enjoy the real love.

MBFW MADRID Monet’s impressionism and his broken watercolour brush strokes inspire the AW19 collection of INuñez . In the collection the designer plays with patterns, combining textures and overlapping fabrics. The strength’s reflection of impressionism through the patterns and by playing with the materials, trying to capture the haziness that Monet used in his pieces. The fabrics and textures fuse with each other and intertwine, giving life to garments that mix light silks with cotton and wools that represent the tougher strokes of his paintings. A very light background painting that seems unstable with overlapping brush strokes that break up the shapes and figures, and in the patterns, which have very defined cuts, we will see this intention, as if water were diluting the silhouettes. All painted with pastel colours against a connecting thread of black, blues that become lilacs, and purples with laminated and silver highlights. This collection is a clear abstract representation of the brand’s philosophy; a strong personality wrapped in a romantic and delicate aura.

Jorge Vázquez is still taking inspirational trips around the world… This time he stops off in the Middle East to drink in the artistic expressions of the Ottoman Empire, where the wealth of the Mediterranean and the Orient converge. He absorbs all the influences left behind by the House of Osman and makes them his own to bring us an exotic, elegant and sophisticated woman. The strength and character of the region are imprinted in his extremely rich and intricate designs, in which details and the combination of materials play a leading role.

Ana Locking presented her collection for Autumn/Winter 2019 inspired by the story of Kaspar Hauser. Locking’s affinity for fashion and art, as well as the passion for her collections, are driven by her belief in the power of dreams, the importance of equal opportunity and the right to achieve one’s purpose.

Based on Grace Jones’s inspiration, the designers of Malne, Juanjo Mánez and Paloma Álvarez explore new lines and the connection between the tradition of haute couture and tailoring and a futuristic view of femininity. AMAZING GRACE!

OTEYZA Autumn/Winter 2019 collection is inspired as much by the classic regionalisms as by the vanguards of the beginning of the century, transferring them to our current universe.

Ulises Mérida AW19 – VALS

The word “vals” (or waltz) derives from the German “walzen”, which literally translates as “spin”. In these ceremonious choreographies, the pairs of dancers rotate on their own axes while turning in a larger circle. At each step, the frock coats and dresses envelop the performers with a hypnotic, elegant, solemn rhythm. This seductive fusion between the fabrics and their wearers is the starting point of “Vals”, the new collection from Ulises Mérida for the next autumn-winter season 2019-2020. Far from emulating the aesthetics of the nineteenth century dance halls, the range focuses on that lightness so characteristic of the waltz and is guided by the maxim that each garment envelops the woman without drowning or hiding her, surrounding her figure.

This mixture of subtlety and solidity is achieved through the play of patterns and fabrics. Sinuous silhouettes dance around the body thanks to the weightlessness of the silk gazar, the lightest satin, gauze and tulle. Ethereal materials that coexist with others that are more structured, such as woollen cloths, thick knit, irregular tricot, waxed fabrics and large rectangular sequins. The colour palette maintains some of the tones present in this collection, such as purple or yellow, and introduces nuances such as a dry green or very intense navy blues, which coexist in harmony and without treading on anyone’s feet.

The benchmark for Marcos Luengo’s AW19 collection is the work of painter Joaquim Mir, from which he creates patterns that serve as the leitmotif for next winter. Patterns incorporated into knitwear, satin and silk velvet. The painterly colours used range from mauve, sepia and yellow through to the orange, blue and ocean green.

MBFW MADRID For his materials, the designer opts for double wool crepes, colt skin and double-sided tartan for his daywear range, which he combines with distressed leather for his detailing and accessories. In his nightwear collection velvets and gauzes bordered using paillettes and lurex hold sway and trousers take centre stage.

Feminine silhouettes are picked out by XL belts and eye-catching volumes in the narrower sleeves and shoulders. The designer’s own clothes are once again superimposed and reflected in the AW19. Bags and accessories continue to be the hallmark of the firm.

ROBERTO TORRETA AW19

Tailoring is the keyword that defines Roberto Torretta’s forthcoming collection for Autumn/Winter 2019. Elegant, independent, energetic women from the world of cinema and fashion, have introduced this concept in their way of dressing, turning it into a powerful identifying mark that inspires and offers Roberto Torretta the opportunity to work and experiment with this idea in a new and developed way.

Influences from men’s tailoring, romantic details, overlays, a combination of dissonant fabrics and ultra-feminine silhouettes bounce off each other to add spice to a captivating collection theme. The oversized coats and jackets combined with wide and narrow Tuxedó effect trousers, suggest warmth in Japanese woollen cloths and fabrics of chocolate, anthracite grey, glacier grey and charcoal grey colour. A wide palette of greys including tone-on-tone checks.

Dresses of sophisticated, tight, straight, flared, short and new midi silhouettes are designed in navy blue flannel fabrics, 3D in white and black, cerulean blue and crimson red satin silks.Exquisite all over floral patterns in grape, lavender, mauve, brown, peppermint and lettuce green tones raise the tone of the collection and enliven the more neutral colours. The night elegantly shows off the fluidity of overlaid noble fabrics pleated in tone on tone black and black with gold.

The ROBERTO DIZ collection for Autumn/Winter 2020 represents a tribute to women’s empowerment and the place new women hold in today’s society, being stronger for the first time than the male sex. The designer  presents an idea of feminine power that does not exclude sensuality but uses it as a weapon. A collection divided into several parts but in which “red carpet effect” long dresses undoubtedly abound, endowed with a new femininity covered in fox skins in self-adaptable garments. Neoprenes, nylon, velvet, wool and the shine of metal, become armour for the new woman who does not need the help of man. Bottle green, burgundy, an intense range of blues and the eternal black, the designer’s favourite colour, are mixed with metallic sparkles and an acid touch as a glimpse of the future.

MOISES NIETO Autumn/Winter 2019 – 

”Four Tones
Nine designs
Sixteen colours
A blank space
Four models
Thirty-six garments
Zero prints
Sixteen accessories
Thirty-two looks
One song
One hundred and fifty guests
Something new

This is not a fucking runway Vol.III”

BRAIN & BEAST/ S P E L L B O U N D /_ Aesthetic Torsion Nº2 _

In the first half of the 20th century Gaëtan Gatian of Clérambault describes in “Les Psychoses Passionelles” a delirious picture dominated by erotomaniac ideas that has gone down in history with his name: the Clérambault Syndrome.

These disorders are a form of psychosis distinct from schizophrenia where the only symptom that appears is delirium. Who suffers this erotomaniac delirium, has the conviction (not the desire, nor the fantasy, nor the illusion … but the absolute conviction) to have a relationship of “impossible love” with a person generally of a superior social position that is unattainable. In addition, it is usually to this person who is attributed having taken the first steps and who has given rise to this relationship. You will also see evidence of the love that your “partner” manifests in the most insignificant act that he performs, and as it is a delirium, these ideas are fixed, permanent and irreducible to logical argumentation.

/ Spellbound / is conceived as a reflection on the obsession with a captivating and blind abstraction, embodied in person, object or dogma of faith. Thus, it is ironic about love and hate, unfulfilled promises, dreams that do not allow to rest, the irrational of feeling and the thin line that separates delirium from reality.

Fatal vampirizing fates, parents of thought turned into idols of the masses, anonymous in love letters, cinema and television as a factory for false gods, technology as a channel of proximity to unreality.

SHOOP is a unisex fashion brand founded in by Miriam Sanz and Yohei Oki. They are based between Madrid and Tokyo. SHOOP designs alternative contemporary fashion. 

 

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