OSMAN SS19 at London Fashion Week, a journey through a rambling green wild oasis
OSMAN - Front Row - LFW September 2018
LONDON, ENGLAND - SEPTEMBER 15: Rose McGowan attends the OSMAN show during London Fashion Week September 2018 at Pheonix Gardeon September 15, 2018 in London, England. (Photo by Darren Gerrish/WireImage) *** Local Caption *** Rose McGowan
Osman takes us on a journey through a rambling green wild oasis we’ve never seen before: Was it always here? Where does the path lead and what’s around the corner? There is fantasy, drama, magic and ravishing creatures to meet on this trip. These are party clothes, inspired by the most spectacular gatherings of the last century – from black and white balls in grand hotels to Venetian masked revels. But they walk a path through the day as well as the night.
The Osman woman has perpetual wanderlust. She is fearless of cultural boundaries. Her spring wardrobe mixes radically different elements that have gone into a collection built for escapism, and she feels a strong affinity with every pattern and shape. Here is the version of herself she’s always dreamed of, an individual unrestricted by origins. These clothes give her power.
Spring/Summer 2019 sees Osman refine his signature cuts and silhouettes and embellish them with new colour and texture. There are the exuberant layers and ruffles that define his design vocabulary, and there are garments formed in a freehand way by his technique of draping textiles directly on the body to create cascades of fabric. There is also the strength and purity of tailoring that has defined every Osman collection to date. For all the eclectic fantasy, the designer continues to do what he does best – he cuts to flatter and to make a woman feel powerful. This is a journey defined by the brightness and full bloom of gowns, bows and the most luxurious of fabrics, but there are always those evergreen sharp suits that serve as the bedrock and the roots to everything.
Some of Osman’s most celebrated silhouettes take on a new twist: A sharp trouser suit is presented in zebra print, realised in intricate black and white sequins. Later, there are flames, burning incandescently in sequins across solid black. There are touches of drama and costume: a jacket of cockerel feathers, harem pants, metallic cottons and the sensibility of the 1940s Hollywood siren is in evidence at the same time as an homage to the modern Osman woman epitomised by Beyoncé, Lupita Nyongo, Rose McGowan, Diane Kruger and Naomi Watts.
There is extreme romance: The drift of layered tulle fringed with feathers, and the softness of a rural check. An evening dress is realised in voluminous peach and rose gold brocade. The lower panel of an otherwise simple dress, and the end of its sleeves, is finished in handtied macramé fringing.
The prints, as ever, are a highlight of the collection – Osman collects seemingly diverse graphics on a single textile and pulls the imagery together with a balanced colour scheme. One of the strongest and most definitive new prints from the studio this season appears over an asymmetric dress and a bold pants suit – mixing elements of Japanese illustration with some of the hallucinatory colour of Indian graphic design, depicting wild birds on the branches of trees, sitting beneath a bright burning sun. It is a paradigm of Osman’s secret garden, from the eclectic feeling for colour and imagery to the glamour but also simplicity of the silhouette.