PFW – Valentin Yudashkin Fall/Winter 2017-2018
By Arnel Ian Dela Gente
March 6th 2017, Palais de Tokyo, Paris – Valentin Yudashkin presented the new Fall/Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection. Recently the company went through an extensive process of refreshment and rebranding together with Roberto Baciocchi and the new vision of the brand includes manufacturing clothes of impeccable quality which are not only suited for the black tie gala’s but also correspond with the everyday needs of younger women demanding to look incredibly beautiful while embracing the powerful masculine side.
All of this came together in the new collection which was developed under the supervision of the new art director Gala Yudashkina who, apart from being an art history major and film photography courses graduate of the Parsons School of Design in New York, is well spoken, talented and very well followed within Russia and around the world. The various forms, the evolution and the multidimensional nature of menswear from the XX century heavily influenced the new collection.
The focus is on shapes and details of the male image which is transformed to fit into the womenswear collection by bringing masculinity together with female elegance to form expressive and sensual looks. The details and fine points of the new collection can precisely be seen in each of the looks. Valentin Yudashkin offers knitted sweatshirts, hoodies with handmade woolen finishing, overalls, boyfriend trousers, oversize coats and jackets which are decorated with large pockets.
The collection also includes wide trousers and high-waist skirts, A-shaped cocktail dresses, straight and suited jackets some of which are decorated with ornaments, braids and handmade avian compositions. The evening looks are comprised of voluptuous long dresses made form silk tulle and tulle with spray paint, lace, organza and sequin fabric that are complemented by drapes, bouffant waves and exquisite embroidery. The latter, it has to be said, reserves a special place within the new collection.
Valentin Yudashkin turns to Byzantian art by using ancient ornaments and patterns, aged gold and bronze coloured stone, bead and spangle embroidery. Apart from that some of the pieces are graced with gold thread embroidery, woolen threads and metal braid. The Valentin Yudashkin Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection uses moderate shades of graphite, noble gray, black, bronze and aged silver as the main colours.
The preference in this collection is given to wool, leather, organza, sequin fabric, woolen patterns, tulle, perforated velvet and high-tech fabrics with spray paint all of which are used both separately and in combinations. This elegant eclecticism creates delicate, feminine, and sensual but strong images