Manuel Delogu artistically translated into Manuel Casati, was born in Sassari on November 22, 1989. In his childhood began to cultivate a strong interest in the decadent literature and history and this introduced him in the world of art history through the authoritative portraits of the characters that most excite his curiosity. The main reference figures are quite different but all have psycho-social features in which he finds affinity. The transformation and the world of the theater are a fantastic discovery that leads to the creation of costumes that initially are for him a game but later turned into a real expressive language. He studied costume and fashion at Istituto D’Arte Filippo Figari of Sassari and this refined his knowledge in the field of theatre and fashion. He organizes and participates in various shows sponsored by the schools, realizing for the occasion dresses with a strong theatrical impact. His work is mainly based on the research of the history of costume and fashion. Through what revisits the various historical periods with a careful look at the various details that, filtered through a modern lens, become absolutely current. Right combination of suit and historical and theatrical costume. After high school he attended the course of Stage Design for the show at the Academy of Fine Arts Mario Sironi.
Interview with Manuel Casati
TPM: I know that you were born in Sardinia, one of the most beautiful places in the world. What gave this to you before coming to Milan?
Manuel Casati: As a teenager, I felt a kind of rejection of what was around me, preferring to look elsewhere, to the history and culture of other places and peoples. But then growing up, I realized that unconsciously the traditions and history of the local custom, were part of my cultural background and coexisted within me along with other passions which came from overseas. It would be obvious to talk about sea and sun, but for sure the harshness of the places and the nature not tamed, have helped my education for the irrational part of my job as a designer.
TPM: Tell me your childhood dream?
Manuel Casati: Just one? I had a lot of dreams! Certainly, as I was influenced by the readings of historical books, the biggest dream was to live in the past, like a character in an eighteenth-century courtyard. I was for sure an atypical child.
TPM: How did you start in fashion design?
Manuel Casati: It all started from the childish game that I was playing with clothes inspired from movies and books, with a preference for those extravagant and spectacular or perhaps related to the history of costume. What fascinated me most was the amazing ability with which some clothes can express the personality of a person. The transition from modeling clothes to sew them took place through the graphical representation, drew tons of clothes and costumes by insisting on the details and on a plastic made that I still carry today behind and characterizing my models.
TPM: What is the message behind your creations?
Manuel Casati: Usually I let the clothes themselves to express it. Of course, I try to convey and maintain an ideal of beauty that is increasingly dispersed, perhaps an useless beauty but whooping as André Breton said it would be, trying to keep everything in the balance on the tight wire of madness. It’s how I like to imagine my work, which must be an integral part of the wearer. The dress has to breathe out and inside the body, become one with it as the robes of marble statues, instilling a sense of well being and self-satisfaction to those who have chosen consciously. This at least is what I try to “kick out” when I create.
TPM: Where do you get inspiration from?
Manuel Casati: There are many sources from which to draw the necessary inspiration for my creations. The decadent fin de siecle literature, especially French and English authors, the theater, the filmography, art with its endless nuances that brings me to the continuous wandering for exhibitions and museums and of course the history of costume and fashion, or various characters from the inimitable rated lives from which, through a psychological analysis and introspective draw elements together then melt you, I wish my clothes gave the feeling of thinking creatures.
TPM: Describe the woman of your last collection.
Manuel Casati: Refined but with a punk intelligence, eccentric and extremely elegant.
TPM: In your opinion how is the language of fashion and which trends are more interesting nowadays?
Manuel Casati: I find that the language of fashion is very faster nowadays, slowed by nostalgic flashbacks from a decade or another. But what I now intend to express forcefully is the breaking of old dogmas which differ in how they dress the two sexes, in favor of so-called “no gender”, who always adhere more fashion designers, who tend to fade and sometimes cancel their collections gender distinctions an insurmountable time. I think everything is fresh and innovative breakthrough if not avant-garde. Fashion wants to make his own the concept that define is to limit. Thanks to this process, one day will no longer be the skirt or the boxer to determine whether an individual is male or female.
TPM: There is a famous person you would like to dress?
Manuel Casati: Maybe it’s bad to say, but my famous references are almost all dead. However, we are talking about contemporary personalities, for sure Daphne Guinness.
TPM: Who is the most important of your life?
Manuel Casati: Difficult to limit the discussion to one person. But I can claim to be immensely grateful to my mother, for its sweetness but also to the wise firmness and for not having never failed not only moral support, encouraging me in my choices, but also technical, she is an excellent seamstress.
TPM: Tell me phrase that defines Manuel Casati.
Manuel Casati: Dare more to get the full consciousness of himself.